Still wine maker who works in small batches

JAMES Townsend is assistant winemaker at Harrow & Hope, Marlow, and has recently set up Leornian Wines. He attended the English Sparkling Wine Festival in Market Place, Henley, last month and has lived in Henley, Maidenhead and Windsor in the last four years. He is married to Felicity with whom he has twin girls.

Describe your business?

I make tradition method sparkling wine at Harrow & Hope and I also have my own business, where I make small-batch still wines from grapes grown across the UK, including from the Thames Valley and Oxfordshire.

How many people does it employ?

It’s just me making the wine and running sales, but I rely heavily on friends to help at harvest and with bottling.

What did you do before you started this business?

I managed a vineyard in Yorkshire between Harrogate and York. Prior to that I was a primary school teacher at a prep school in North Yorkshire.

When did you start your business?

I started Leornian Wines in 2022, buying fruit for my first vintage from Worcestershire and Yorkshire. These first wines were released at the end of 2023 and sold really well.

What was your objective?

The aim is to explore the potential of making quality still wines in the UK. I think it has huge potential and it’s really exciting to be able to work with growers across the country and make a wide variety of wines on a small scale.

Who or what influenced you?

My biggest influence was from my early twenties when I went to volunteer on a vineyard in Southern Tuscany. I loved the way of life and how food and wine brought communities together.

What would you do differently if starting again?

I would go to more markets and fairs in the area to build up a customer base, so I could make more direct-to-customer sales.

How is your business doing compared with last year?

It’s always a slow start to the year in the alcohol industry but since around April things have really picked up. I had a great day at the recent English wine fair in Henley, there was a real buzz around the place with so many local growers and winemakers there.

How do you market your business?

My website and social media are the main marketing channels for me — although I don’t do enough on this. Other than that I rely on my trade customers to sell my story to their customers for me.

What’s the best thing about running your own business?

The chance to make a wide variety of wines and use grapes from across the country. It’s such an exciting time to be winemaking in the UK.

What’s the most challenging aspect?

Juggling it alongside my full-time job as assistant winemaker at Harrow & Hope. Managing this along with the very recent birth of our twin girls is going to be even more interesting.

Where is your business headed?

I always want to keep it small but I’d love to find a new grower or two and work with some new grape varieties. I’m excited to get hold of some Pinot Gris to make this year.

How important are online sales?

At the moment they’re very important for me as I always have a presence there and can show people what I’m doing. It’s also crucial for the bottom line as it’s one of the only ways for me to get full margin on my wines, with sales to the trade discounted so they can make their own margins.

Are you using generative AI to shape your business?

I explored it a little when I originally set up the business and the website but didn’t end up using anything created by AI, opting for self-created content instead.

Do you have a five-year plan?

It’s on my to-do list.

How do you have a work-life balance?

I thought I was getting close to some sort of balance but with the arrival of the twins I think I’ll be starting from scratch again!

Do you set any goals at the start of a new financial year?

Yes, the last couple of years I’ve used this time to plan out the grapes I’ll try to source that year and what wines I’d like to try make.

What’s the most valuable thing you’ve learned?

Customers seem to buy in to the local and personal connection with the project. People love a story behind the product.

What advice would you offer to anyone starting a business?

Research and plan and be ready to adapt and change everything.

What’s the biggest mistake you’ve made?

Taking so long to start the business and just get going.

How organised are you?

As the son of an accountant, I love a spreadsheet and getting things organised.

What are you most looking forward to?

I’m really looking forward to harvest. With all this warm dry weather, I’m excited to see the ripeness levels and flavour profiles of the grapes this year. I’m not expecting a big harvest but the quality of the fruit should be some of the best we’ve seen for a while.

How are you planning for retirement?

Quite worryingly, I’m not planning for retirement yet. That’s something I should be putting in the five-year plan.

What three qualities are most important to running a profitable business?

Passion, determination and empathy.

How do you dress for work each day?

It’s very relaxed in the winery — I can’t be precious about clothes getting wet and/or dirty. Hard wearing, waterproof boots are essential. It feels like 80 per cent of my work in the winery is cleaning.

What can’t you do without every day?

My morning coffee and a good lunch. I’ve definitely taken this from my time in Italy, the day revolves around food.

Lunch at your desk or going out?

At my desk normally, although while the weather is so good I’m taking it out into the vineyard when I can.

Do you continue to study?

As much as I can. It’s a lot easier to continue learning in the vineyard as there’s a lot more information out there about viticulture. Winemakers seem to keep things close to their chest and try to hold on to their methods.

What do you read?

Mostly fiction, I like a good fantasy and adventure series.

What change would you most like to see in 2025?

Driving more traffic to the website and developing more direct to consumer sales.

Interview by Will Hamilton, intermediary and global marketing consultant, Hamilton Associates