Exciting food is almost art form

THE Leatherne Bottel in Goring is under new management. Dorset-born Stuart Cockwell and his team have revamped the menu with an injection of “home-grown vibrancy and elegance” — and last week he invited me and a colleague to sample it.

Stuart gave us a tour of his kitchen garden which included a hand-made smoker. There was an extensive selection of herbs and vegetables all grown within a stone’s throw of the kitchen door. If there’s anything to satisfy my passion for organic and locally sourced produce, then this is it.

After a glass of English rosé by the bar we were led through the dining area to our table. One of the biggest attractions of this restaurant is its quiet riverside location, and from our table we had the perfect view.

Our meal started with home-made bread with butter and oils and a flavoursome amuse-bouche of sweet potato and rosemary soup. We then sampled a selection of starters, including seared scallops with home-made chorizo, confit pork belly and a spiced orange reduction, garlic-roasted prawns with brown shrimp cappuccino, baby beets, caviar and aioli, and pan-roasted gnocchi, black garlic, and tomato carpaccio with rhubarb mousseline.

Each plate looked a work of art bursting with exciting colours. The scallops were huge and the flesh was juicy and sweet. This was offset by home-smoked chorizo and pork belly and tied together with a rich orange tang. The prawn dish was so pretty, with dainty pearls of caviar decorating the plate. There was a twist to this delicious Mediterranean-style classic with a frothy brown shrimp cappuccino and a super sweet baby beetroot terrine.

The gnocchi (available as a main and starter) totally blew me away — a simple combination of textures and flavours, but so moreish. On the plate were generous-sized cloves of roasted black garlic, the juiciest tomatoes and bite-sized golden gnocchi with a slight crisp edge.

The main courses offered at the Leatherne Bottel include market fish of the day and a set menu. From the à la carte menu I chose roast lamb, mint five ways, parmentier potatoes, crushed peas, carrots and red wine reduction. Meanwhile my colleague chose oven-baked turbot, shallot, lime and spring onion gratin with a crab, sweetcorn and chilli consume. The meat was pink and juicy and the variety of mint in its differing forms was something I’d not experienced before. Roast lamb and mint sorbet does work! All the other components on the plate made for an excellent dish. The red wine reduction was the best I’d tasted.

The oven-baked turbot was the ultimate comfort food in an elegantly presented bowl. The fresh and meaty fish was served with potato gratin with aromatic spring onion, bound together with spicy crab and sweetcorn. There was an underlying zesty lime flavour which was unexpected but worked very well.

Stuart’s pudding menu is simple yet effective. Choices include sticky toffee pudding, sticky toffee sauce and vanilla ice cream, double chocolate and pistachio brownie with caramelised orange and honeycomb and English cheeses with quince jam.

My companion opted for the signature deconstructed Eton mess dessert, What a mess? This consisted of a shot glass of vibrant strawberry coulis served with fresh strawberries and small nuggets of meringue. As tempted as I was to try the brownie I chose the lemon puff — a large profiterole filled with lemon posset and drizzled with citrus syrup. The lightness of the choux pastry contrasted well with the creamy filling.

The Leatherne Bottel had a reputation for being posh and pretentious in the past but this is certainly not the case now. To book a table call (01491) 872667 or visit www.leathernebottel.co.uk