Meet vicar
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BARBARA Laithwaite CBE is a businesswoman and grape grower from Henley. She has been involved in Laithwaites Wines since 1971 when her husband Tony founded it. The couple have three adult sons.
Describe your business
I have always been on the board or part of the management team of Laithwaites but recently stepped down from the board to concentrate on two other businesses, Wyfold Vineyard and the Red Lion at Peppard. Tony and I only helped buy the freehold of the pub, which is run by the next generation, Will, of the Loose Cannon Brewery in Abingdon, Tom, family chair of Laithwaites, and their longstanding friend James Williamson as well as brilliant pub manager Tom Wilson.
How many people does it employ?
Wyfold doesn’t employ anybody but lots of people work there, including my daughter-in-law Kirsten Willis, a oenologist and viticulturist, who does a lot of the hand work, as does another wine veteran, Jon Ryan. Most of the tractor work is done by wine farmer Ed Mitcham and his team of Romanians. The Friends of Wyfold help out when asked. Above all I have the support of winemaker Henry Laithwaite, of Harrow & Hope, who produces brilliant wine for me and wins gold medals and trophies galore for his own wine and vineyard in Marlow. My job is to co-ordinate this lot and help where I can and to look after our customers.
What did you do before you started this business?
I was a TV market researcher working for an agency in London and prior to that I studied chemistry to degree level. Is there a link here, I wonder?
When did you start your business?
Wyfold was planted in 2003 though the soil had to be prepared beforehand. As a family, we had owned vineyards in France since the early Eighties but I wasn’t hands on then.
What was your objective?
I wanted people to taste the wine and think, “My, this is good, I want more”. I think that is what we’re doing — we have a long list of accolades and we’re much admired in the thriving world of English wine.
Who or what influenced you?
As a family we’ve never been afraid of trying something new, especially if it’s wine-related. Tony specialises in seeing new trends and it had become clear 20 or 30 years that the climate in England was changing. One of the new pioneers was Mike Roberts, of Ridgeview estate and winery, and he helped me set up Wyfold. Another was the great oenologist and winemaker Dr Tony Jordan from Moët, who tutored me and Henry. Both these dear friends have died but their contributions are everlasting.
What would you do differently if you could start again?
As a grape grower, I would plant slightly differently on the land that we have, which has a perfect north-south slope. As a businesswoman, I would seriously consider size as it takes as much investment in equipment for a 2.2 hectare vineyard like Wyfold as it would for one three times its size.
How is your business doing?
Great. We’ve just got our first order from Norway, having previously only exported to the US. Wyfold is now being served at the UK embassy in Washington and a Wyfold magnum was featured at the recent King’s birthday celebrations.
How do you market your business?
By winning as many independent accolades as possible, designing a beautiful product and choosing carefully where and how we distribute. Most of the retailing is done through Laithwaites though I have a bonded warehouse locally. We do wine festivals.
What’s the best thing about running your own business?
I get a kick out of making decisions and I love working with such a great team. It’s like conducting an orchestra. And the wine world is full of fascinating people.
What’s the most challenging aspect?
Cash is king and six years’ worth of stock and all that equipment is quite a draining resource so has to be nurtured. Finding and keeping the right people.
Where is your business headed?
I am a tenant farmer and the lease runs out in April 2034 so the last harvest under that tenancy will be 2033. My successor will decide the future of Wyfold.
How important are online sales?
Very.
What’s the most valuable thing you’ve learned?
Listen to others.
What’s the biggest mistake you’ve made?
I’ve made lots of mistakes but sometimes getting too isolated and not collaborating enough leads to frustration. There’s always somebody who will help.
What three qualities are most important to success?
Hard work, planning and... luck.
What’s the secret of your success?
Family support.
How do you dress for work each day?
Rough gear for the vineyard, comfortable but clean for most other tasks.
How organised are you?
Pretty well organised.
What can’t you be without every day?
Family contact.
Lunch at your desk or going out?
Ideally, none. I have a jar of nuts in my car and often a flask of coffee.
Do you continue to study?
I wish I had time. I do have a stack of journals and books which are nearly all vineyard-related.
What do you read?
Mostly fiction. I’m currently enjoying Cormoran Strike. I read the news but skip the most depressing bits.
How are you planning for retirement?
Well, last harvest plus six years of stock takes me to well over 90 years of age, so I’ll be happy with that.
Interview by Will Hamilton, intermediary and global marketing consultant, Hamilton Associates
08 July 2024
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