I closed down deli before it started to lose money

THE owner of a Henley delicatessen says she closed the business before it started to lose money.

Emma Nettleton, 43, who opened Sage and Squash in Bell Street in February 2020, wants to focus on her catering businesses.

She said she had decided to quit while she was ahead as the deli was losing trade to other businesses but that there were “no hard feelings”.

Ms Nettleton said: “I wasn’t losing money but I knew I would if I continued. It was a sensible business decision.”

The deli closed on December 11 but she is continuing to run Sage and Squash and Chef Nettleton from her home in Cane End and hopes to one day have a retail unit again.

Ms Nettleton said: “People all want a reason as to why I’ve closed but it’s not that simple.

“There were multiple factors — I’m not failed, broke or bankrupt. It’s about sustainability and a retail unit doesn’t meet those needs. I can’t say, ‘Poor me, Gail’s [bakery] has opened. That’s not fair’.

“We came in, served our purpose, and I am very grateful as I really enjoyed it.

“I feel guilty that I have let people down by closing. It has been an absolute pleasure but a lot of bloody hard work.

“I have two young kids on my own, I am a businesswoman and hospitality is tricky.

“I feel like I am a smarter cookie now from this experience. I have no complaints. Henley regulars are loyal and I am grateful to them.

“It isn’t a disaster, it is just business. This isn’t the end of it, though. I have always wanted to open a few branches, like one in Clapham, for example. There is still scope for that with all the knowledge I’ve gained.

“The question is just when and where. I want to aim for market towns and places with lots of yummy mummies.”

Ms Nettleton said the cost of living crisis and inflation had impacted the business as well as competition.

She said: “I begrudgingly put my prices up but I took the hit and the business wasn’t making money.

“When I opened, the Henley make-up wasn’t too different. I noticed there was a need to avoid paninis and eat-on-the-go food.

“My vision was for people to enjoy a meal, not just get a sandwich. I find that options can be limited for on-the-go food. People don’t want to sit down and pay a cover charge. We learned one customer at a time.”

Ms Nettleton, who grew up in Wallingford, has more than 20 years’ experience in catering.

She studied at Le Cordon Bleu and worked in London before moving back to this area in 2019.

Ms Nettleton said she started to notice the deli was losing money last summer after the opening of some bigger chains. She said: “I am not pointing any fingers but there is only so much footfall in Henley and everyone enjoys outdoor seating. I couldn’t compete with that as my unit didn’t have that.

“As a retailer, you need to understand your strengths and weaknesses. It is harder for independent businesses as the margins in hospitality are so small.

“I also only had seating for 20, whereas Gail’s has room for many more. My morning business started to decrease and working from 11am to 2pm is not viable with the rent and business rate.

“When Sage and Squash opened, it felt like there was a place on the high street for everybody. There was no mention of Côte Brasserie, Planet Organic or Gail’s. Now I don’t think it is the same.

“There is a mutual understanding among independent retailers in Henley. For example, I had so much support from Café Buendia who work so hard.

“It is sometimes heart-breaking though. Business is business but we should be mindful of the quality and hard work that people in independent businesses do.

“I would personally try to go independent but I don’t mind if you just need a coffee.”

Ms Nettleton said the deli had provided an opportunity to publicise her catering business.

“Now, everyone recognises Sage and Squash,” she said. “There have been endless enquiries and I cater for huge amounts of people, sometimes 400 at a time. It is really fun and I can spend quality time with my kids and dog too. I’m a chef. Food is my happy place and my peace. I don’t know what else I would do, so I am fortunate that it is also my career.”

Ms Nettleton has professional kitchens in her house and garage and says she can plan a full event, including music, flowers and equipment such as marquees.

She will continue working in and around Henley as it is “lovely and familiar” and says she is already taking bookings for the summer.

She said: “Catering is a huge event in someone’s life. Some people only get a caterer once in their life and food is often an integral part of the event they have organised.

“That’s where I come in. It is really exciting and rewarding. I never find it overwhelming either. There are lots of things I can’t do, but I can do food.

“At the deli, I had regulars who would come in every morning and know what they wanted. I would try sell them something else but they’d just go, ‘I want a chicken poke, I’ve been thinking about it for four hours’.

“I was able to make fresh and nourishing food that everyone enjoyed. Now I know 200 personal tastes. I know who doesn’t like cucumber and who doesn’t like olives. You end up having a personal relationship with people.

“I feel proud to have served the people of Henley. It has been a lot of work but I have incredible customers, who give me faith, and amazing staff, some of whom are joining my catering business.”